I have heard that the industry average for spa pump motor is about 8 years. When the motor goes, you have an option– change simply the motor, or buy the whole pump.
The exact same with the damp end, or the opposite end of the pump, you might just replace a new wet end onto the existing motor. We have a big inventory of parts for spa pumps, to fix practically any pump problem.
However … if you ‘d rather not get your hands unclean, and prefer to just replace the entire pump– motor and wet end, then this post is for you. Here’s how to replace a common spa pump, wired into a spa pack.
1. Examine the Frame, Horsepower, Voltage & Speed
You do not wish to set up the incorrect pump, so go out your reading glasses and a flashlight, and examine the label on the pump motor. Look for FR which indicates frame type (48 or 56), HP for horsepower( 1– 5), Voltage (115 or 230) and Speed (single or double). Replace your existing pump with the same size and type spa pump.
Pay attention to how the pump discharge is oriented, is it on the side, or on the leading? These are 2 different wet ends. The side discharge spa pump can be turned to various locations by loosening the volute screws, but the center discharge is leading dead center– 12:00.
If you have questions on choosing the right spa pump, please call or email us!
2. Turn off the Power
Don’t take chances, find the appropriate breaker that feeds the spa and shut it off. Utilize a piece of tape over the breaker so that no one unintentionally turns it back on. After shutting down the breaker, test to be sure that power is off, then you can continue to take apart and get rid of the existing pump.
3. Disconnect Old Spa Pump
Start with getting rid of the bare copper bonding wire that is connected to the pump. Now, assuming that the spa is drained pipes, or you have valves near to avoid the water from running out, slowly loosen the union nuts on the incoming and outgoing water connections of the spa pump. 1-10 gallons of water will drain out, so be prepared if your spa is situated inside.
If your spa pump is bolted to the floor, utilize a wrench or socket to get rid of the bolts on the motor footpad.
As soon as you can move the pump, position it to offer you simple access to the wires entering the back of the motor. Open the cover plate and you will discover 3-wires for a single speed pump, and 4-wires for a two-speed spa pump. With a screwdriver, nut driver or needle nose, you can remove the wires from their terminal screws, and after loosening up the cord clamp on the motor, gently pull the wire cable out of the existing motor.
For a two-speed motor, note or label the high speed and low speed wires, to wire correctly to the brand-new motor. Put on your glasses and flashlight once again, you’ll find the terminal screws are labeled in extremely small print.
4. Connect New hot tub Pump
You’ll discover it much easier to wire the motor before you slide the pump underneath the spa. Make similar connections to the brand-new pump. For two-speed motors, low speed is typically Red, common is White and high speed is Black, and green is obviously is green. If the wires are not an actual spa pump cable, the colors might be different. Match up the wire color to the markings on the terminal board.
Get rid of the pump cable clamp from the old motor and screw it into the wire gain access to port of the brand-new motor. Place the pump cord through the clamp, and link the wires to the terminals. You can either wrap the bare wire around the post, underneath the screw or nut, or utilize spade ports crimped onto the end of the wire. Ensure that your connections are tight, and no wires are touching each other.
Tighten up the pump cord clamp where the wires get in the rear of the motor, and replace the motor end cap or cover.
Next, you can thread on the union nuts to the new spa pump, making sure that the o-ring is still intact, and has actually not fallen out. Utilizing a rubber pad below the pump can assist reduce it even further.
Reconnect the bare copper bonding wire to the bonding lug on your brand-new spa pump.
5. Testing a New Spa Pump
Once the pipes on the pump is tightened up, you can start to fill the spa. When you have the spa about half full, open the valves and loosen the inbound spa union to allow any air lock to get away, and tighten up securely when water begins to leak. Continue to fill the spa full, while looking for any leakages around the new spa pump.
When the spa is complete, turn on the breaker to test your spa pump, running through it’s paces. Make certain that your heating system kicks on which everything looks and sounds correct.
A fairly basic treatment, however if you need any support in changing spa and hot tub pumps, we have spa techs standing by waiting for your call or email!
No matter which company you purchase you swim spa from they will offer a traditional rigid foam filled spa cover. And just like every other foam filled cover ever made, those panels will eventually begin to saturate with moisture from the steam coming off the spa water, until they are too heavy to lift.
Bar lifters won’t help once the cover becomes too heavy either because you will still have to flop it over the bar while trying not to strain yourself. Then push it off the end of the spa. When the cover is heavy it will either rip itself apart (because the seam of the cover is not built to handle the added weight) or worse it will rip the bar lifter off the sides of your spa potentially causing damage to the spa cabinet.
The SpaCap Swim Spa Covers by contrast, don’t employ foam so there is nothing to soak up the moisture. They are built to stay lightweight and easy to use. Visit SpaCap.com and order one for your swim spa today.