How to install a hot tub in your yard
You don’t require to invest much time luxuriating in a hot-tub spa to discover its relaxation benefits. Backyard health spas are perfect for families on the go.
Hot tubs are not for everybody, however. All those warm, rubbing bubbles can raise blood pressure and heart rates, while decreasing blood glucose. They’re not advised for infants, the very old or those with diabetes, hypertension or heart illness.
Choosing Your hot tub
Looking for hot tubs can be a little confusing. There are many brands and designs, and every sales representative appears to highlight a different set of features. As normal, rate is an excellent indicator of quality. Hot Tubs vary between $1500 and $10,000, with the better models beginning around $3500. These are 3- and four-person tubs. Larger health clubs cost more, and those with lots of specialized jets, DC-powered pumps and ozone-generating water cleansers, can soon reach $6000 to $8000. Include devices and you can quickly pay a couple thousand more.
A couple of business provide two-person spas, however many begin with 3- or four-person seating and go up to the eight-person size. A full-size tub can determine 8 x 8 ft. and 42 in. Big tubs are excellent for large, active families with plenty of area, but smaller tubs are no less attractive or healing.
Filled with water, a full-size tub can weigh 5500 pounds – more than a lot of conventionally framed floors and decks can securely handle. If you cannot beef up the flooring, you’ll either need a smaller tub or an installation on concrete.
Most spa shells these days are made in two layers: a reinforced fiberglass base and a formed acrylic shell laminated over it. Fiberglass brings strength, and acrylic includes resilience and more color and texture options. The shell is piped and fitted with pumps and jets, and is insulated. The shell is free-standing, so the wooden skirting is mainly decorative, though it does conceal and secure the machinery.
A couple of economy tubs are available with 120-volt circuitry to make the electrical connections simpler – you simply plug these models in. These tubs are little, their heaters are less efficient and they shut down when the jets are turned on.
Business generally offer 10- to 20-year service warranties against leaks through the shell, but these kinds of leaks are not likely offered the density of the laminations. More likely are surface problems such as blisters, fractures and discoloration. Try to find a five- to seven-year surface area service warranty and three- to five-year protection on the pumps.
The spa we picked is a Jacuzzi Triton – a large design with all the bells and whistles. Other features consist of a remote control for the tub operation, an AM/FM/CD gamer, undersea lighting, four headrest cushions and double waterfall fixtures. At 42 x 91 x 91 in., it’s not the largest tub, but it comes close.
Locating The Tub
Our yard is small, extending just about 20 ft. beyond a large deck. The grade likewise steps up about 2-1/2 ft., roughly 10 ft. away from the deck. To fit the tub, we cut away a few of the bank and built a small maintaining wall. When choosing where to place your system, bear in mind that spas need service access on all sides.
We planned for one side of our tub to be 18 in. To accommodate the depth of the retaining-wall blocks, plus a foot for drain gravel, we cut into the bank an additional 24 in.
Using some of the removed soil, grade the setup area just enough to allow drainage away from the tub. For the very first row of landscape blocks, excavate a trench about 4 in.
Level the gravel and compact it with a hand tamper or gas-powered sand-plate tamper. String a level line to assist the first row of blocks.
Set landscape blocks on pea gravel in the trench to match the leveled string. Then, check this first course with a 4-ft. level.
With the very first course in place, set the staying blocks. The kind of block we utilized has a lip along the back edge that locks over the block below. When turning a corner, you’ll have to break off this edge to maintain the very same obstacle between the courses. To keep these blocks from moving forward in time, glue them in place with masonry building and construction adhesive. When you complete the wall, back-fill with gravel. Cover the top of the gravel with weed-guard material and soil.
Where the wall turns, break off edge-lock tabs on the blocks. Next, apply construction adhesive to hold the blocks in place.
Next, set the kind lumber for the concrete pad, and level it in all directions. Check that the kind is square by ensuring the diagonal measurements are equal. Spread sand inside the form to fill any spaces and tamp it. Fill the form with concrete and screed it with a straight 2 x 4. Float and trowel the slab smooth.
While an appropriate pad may consist of 2500-psi concrete, intensified with iron rebar or wire mesh, local electrical codes would have required us to ground this strengthening metal back to the electrical service panel. To prevent this issue, we updated to 3000-psi concrete and included fiberglass support to our 4-in.- thick pad.
After pouring concrete in a leveled form, screed it with a straight 2 x 4. Float and trowel the surface area smooth.
We moved our tub from the driveway to the site on a little trailer. Thoroughly slide the tub off and place it on the piece.
Setting The Tub
If you buy your hot tub from a spa dealer, the business will normally set it in location for you. If you buy through a house center or discount rate shop, however, you may need to move and install the tub yourself. Presuming your tub is in a dog crate in the driveway, eliminate the packaging and move the tub onto the trailer.
Water and electrical power do not mix, so if you’re not comfy with your circuitry skills, this is a great time to work with an electrician.
In our case, regional codes needed a constant bond wire from the tub to the service panel. We likewise needed a detach box at least 5 ft. from the tub and a GFCI breaker securing the entire circuit.
Since of the DC converter, we used only two hot wires, a grounding wire and a bonding wire – no neutral was required. Our spa was close to 70 ft. from the service panel, so we ran 6-ga. While all outdoor circuitry requires to be in conduit, we decided to install the entire run from the main panel in 1-in.
Begin by running the conduit from the service panel to a house rim joist near the tub. Bore through the siding and the joist with a hole saw and feed the channel through the joist.
Bring power from the main panel to the exterior through your home’s rim joist. Bore a hole to slide avenue through.
Glue a POUND channel box to the conduit and extend the avenue up to a disconnect box. Dig a channel at least 18 in. deep for the buried avenue from the tub. At the tub, join a POUND to the avenue with a slip coupling to permit the ground to move seasonally without stressing the channel connections. We carried the avenue underground to our deck. Here, we brought it up to the deck with another slip coupling and POUND, and after that ran it to the detach box.
At the tub, splice a slip coupling just listed below the POUND connection. Run the avenue in a trench at least 18 in. deep
With the avenue in location, pull the 4 wires from the primary panel to the detach box with a fish tape.
With avenue from the panel and tub meeting at the disconnect box, utilize a fish tape to pull the four wires through.
Bind the hot wires to the hot terminals and the ground wires to the ground terminals. In our case, it was needed that the bonding wire continue continuous through the detach panel.
Inside the disconnect box, connect the hot wires to the 4 hot terminals, and the ground wires to the 2 ground terminals.
End up the outdoor wiring by making the hot, ground and bond connections in the spa’s equipment box. You’ll discover the terminals plainly identified.
At the tub’s control box, fasten the hot wires, the ground wire and the bonding wire according to maker’s instructions.
Connect the circuit hot wires to a 50-amp GFCI breaker in the service panel and link the bond and grounding wires to the panel’s grounding bus. Leave the circuit’s power off until after you’ve filled the tub with water and your work has actually passed examination.
In the service panel, connect the circuit with a 50-amp, 240-volt GFCI breaker. Shut off the power and avoid touching the panel.
To make steps for our hot tub, we initially put a 31-in.- broad concrete pad, and then built two 30-in.- broad action boxes out of cedar. Make the box frames from 2 x 6 lumber. Size the depth of the bottom box for two 2 x 12 treads, and the depth of the top box for one 2 x 12 tread. Assemble packages with screws.
Develop frames from 2 x 6 cedar for the 2 actions. Develop the bigger bottom frame first and attach two 2 x 12s to its top.
After the bottom box is constructed, secure the top box frame to it with screws owned diagonally from the within
Place the smaller sized frame on the rear edge of the lower step and protect the 2 levels with screws driven diagonally.
Then, add the top tread and stain the assembly to match the skirting.
Complete the action assembly by screwing a single 2 x 12 tread to the top box frame. Stain the actions to match the tub.
1. Make sure hot tub/spa is filled to proper amount. The Proper amount is whatever the spa manufacturer suggests the spa water to be for proper operation of the spa. SpaCap.com Swim Spa Covers/ Hot Tub Covers rest right on the water surface so make sure your spa has water in it.
2. Distinguish the top from the bottom and observe the location of the valves. The top is the side of the Spacap with the Sunbrella fabric on it that shows when it is on the spa. The bottom is the side with the valves on it. When the SpaCap is on the spa, the bottom will rest on the water.
3. Place the SpaCap cover on spa, laying it on water surface. Top, Sunbrella side up. You are meant to fold the cover back to expose the valves to fill your SpaCap.
Note: Valves are meant to be on underside when your cover is on hot tub.
4. Inflation. Open the flap of the valve you intend to put air in. Prop open the inner check valve with a plastic funnel. The funnel will also divert the air into the cover. In order to put air into the SpaCap you need something that moves a volume of air. For example a shop vac that has an exhaust port you can hook the hose into or a leaf blower. An air compressor would work but it will take longer since it is designed to move air under pressure. The SpaCap is not designed to be under pressure.
Inflate the “Top” valve first until there is about eight inches of air. Inflate the bottom unmarked chamber to desired level. We recommend using a shop vac to inflate your SpaCap.com Swim Spa Cover/ Hot Tub Cover.
5. Close valves and center the cover on the spa so that it evenly covers the entire hot tub.
6. Place fasteners as needed. The fasteners help the SpaCap keep its shape, insulate better and keep the moisture running off. The fasteners should be equally spaced and should go below the acrylic of the spa. If your spa has a wood lip that protrudes further then the acrylic the fasteners should go about three inches below the wood lip. If as you are installing the fasteners the cover becomes difficult to fasten on the last side, you have too much air in the cover. There should still be a little give in the cover when fastened and the corners should not be lifting.
If your water is not heated when you first fit the cover, do not inflate the cover all the way. When the water starts to heat up, the air in the cover will, too, possibly causing the cover to be over inflated.
Lastly, set up the polyester filters in the filter housings and fill the tub with a garden hose pipe.
With the setup complete, it’s time to fill the tub. Before filling, nevertheless, install the polyester filters in their real estates.
Insert the hose pipe into among the filter housings and tape it in place. Anticipate the tub to fill out about 45 minutes.
Fill the tub through the filter real estates with a garden pipe. Tape the pipe in location. The tub must complete about 45 minutes.